Wednesday, October 31, 2012

From the movies to the Dades Gorge, October 24

After we check out from the lovely Berber Palace, we visit the Kasbah in Ouarzazate. This looks like a modern city with wide streets, street lights, and mostly sand colored buildings. The Kasbah was owned by an important Berber leader, Thami El Glaoui. Berbers are the indigenous people of Morocco. The Arabs came in the 700s. This cannon changed the history of Morocco.


Beautiful carved ceiling
Bob hikes the Dades Gorge.
Liz views it from up high.
Musicians welcome us back to the Xaluca hotel in Boumaine Dades where we had lunch. Now we will spend the night before heading to the eastern Sahara.
 
We have learned to like the mint tea, often offered to us upon returning from our daily trek!
 

Fabulous Fes, October 27

Our guide today is MoMo (diminutive of Mohammed often used for the youngest son). He shows us an old synagogue and tells us about the Jews in Fes. At one time they lived happily along side the Muslims.
When Israel was established, most of the Jews left Morocco to move there.
The door slides to the side and we see a very old Torah.

It is raining slightly, but there is a break, so we hurry to go see the beautiful bronze doors of the palace.

 

Then we go into the medina, through some very narrow and dark alleys, ending up in the grocery section.

 

 

 

Someone said these are Irish strawberries. I do not know if that is true. But the fruit below are pomegranates which we are served quite often for dessert, sometimes just the seeds and sometimes the fruit is quartered and you miss pick out the seeds.

A cart of sheepskins goes by. This is the day after the Feast Day when the sheep were slaughtered. We see a pile of sheepskins by the street.

 

We visit a 14th century school.

 

 

On through the market where there is a plentiful supply of dried fruit. If the women market here, they bargain each day anew for their groceries.

 

Now we visit a 12 th century school.

 

A typical building has five elements: marble floors, carved cedar ceilings, carved plaster, Arabic writing and tile.

 

Now we go to a former private very sumptuous home. It is magnificent. We are served mint tea. Then we are shown wonderful Berber carpets and given the opportunity to purchase one...or more. They are very desirable, but we have no room for one.
This rug costs about $6000. It is beautiful and reversible.
We walk through a lovely square in the medina. Things are quiet today.
Many craftsmen have taken the day off as it is a holiday weekend with the Feast Day on Friday.

Next we visit the tannery and the leather shop where we do make a purchase.
The cat has just jumped from one row of vats to another. There are cats and kittens everywhere.

On the distant hillside we see hundreds of satellite dishes.

Lunch is served in a gorgeous restaurant, previously a private home.

 

After lunch we some of us visit the ceramics shop, others return to the medina and some go to the hotel.

Back at the hotel we have a wrap up session. Then some of us gather in the bar for camaraderie before going to dinner.

 

Sahara to Fes, October 26

Leaving the Sahara, we drive through varied landscapes today. This is a palmerie, with date palms.

The landscape becomes very dry, but there is a river...

We stop for lunch at a lovely hotel in the middle of nowhere.
We drive to the cedar forest, which is a national preservation and is inhabited by monkeys called Barbary apes, the same ones found on Gibraltar. A man, a Berber, named Mohammed, and his daughter meet us. He is a retired teacher. He tells us about the importance of the forest and the area. His daughter is on a full scholarship to the only private university in Morocco, a very prestigious and VERY expensive school. Her older brother also attended that university.
If it were not raining, we would go for a walk in the forest.
We did not see any monkeys although we heard them.
On to Fes where we stay at the wonderful Palais Jamai in the medina, our most luxurious hotel.
 

The Sahara, October 25

A sandstorm seriously affects the visibility as we approach Erfoud. We have lunch here after visiting a fossil shop, very interesting. We bought a plate with a shell imbedded to serve seafood hors d'oeuvres. There were beautiful fountains, coffee tables, lavatories, etc. On to Rizzani where we buy scarves to wear on the camel ride. This was an especially busy market as tomorrow is Feast Day, also a very primitive market. It used to be a caravan stop.

 

The fossil shop

 

Rizzani market, buying scarves for the camel ride

We transfer from our coach to 4 x 4's. We had planned to sleep in a luxury Berber tent, but the sandstorm
was too bad, and we stayed at the Kasbah Tomboucktou.
Kasbah Tomboucktou
Our room at the Kasbah

Fossil lavatories in our bathroom...we had a beautiful jacuzzi tub, but it did not work. The shower was very good, though.

We had a few minutes in our room as we waited for our luggage. Lo and behold, wifi was available and then we got the email from Caroline that our very close friend for 51 years had passed away. We get our scarves from our luggage and in tears go to the lobby to join the rest. Even though his death was not unexpected, we are extremely sad and do not know if we can continue with the ride.......but we do. The Berber who put my scarf on may have thought my tears were for my fear of the camel ride, but he did not ask as I cannot speak Berber. Our leader hugged me and told me that I did not have to ride a camel, and I said that I did, my children were counting on me....and I wanted to also. I am glad I did. We had not gotten to ride camels in Egypt, even though we thought we would, so we were counting on doing it in Morocco. It was actually easier than riding a horse, although no stirrups. Easier mounting as the camel kneels for you to get on. Then you lean back and hold on tight as the camel gets up. You ride on a saddle on carpets or cloths. I clutched the horn a little too tight. Mohammed kept saying to relax my hold!

 

The camels are waiting and one camel driver called to us. It was Mohammed and he was terrific, so caring and protective of us.

We are ready to go with Mohammed.

Mohammed takes my camera and photographs the group.

Here we are en route to the sand dunes!

We get off and climb up a tall sand dune to view the sunset. We are 35 miles from the Algerian border (which is closed to Morocco). Later we remount the camels and ride back to the Kasbah. Then we take the 4 x 4s to the tent for our dinner, which was delicious, one of the best we had. The 4x4 ride was almost as exciting as the camel ride. We were in car número uno ( with a Spanish speaking driver who loved being número uno)! Mr. Personality!

Musicians greeted us!
 
They played inside the tent for us and some on our group danced!
Our table

The food was one of the best meals we had. Always a first course they called salad, usually cold cooked vegetables, often green and red Bell peppers, marinated, always olives, very tasty!

Tagine, they lift the lid and then the meat course, excellent! Fruit for dessert.

Back to the Kasbah on the 4x4s, and a good night's sleep before heading to Fez the next day...our last stop on the tour.